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06 August 2018
"Bead art in Africa" at the Rietberg Museum in Zürich
This exhibition “Bead art in Africa” at the Rietberg Museum showcases a magnificent new collection of African bead-based art. Both the older and the more recent jewelry reveals the extraordinary creativity of southern, eastern and western Africa. We discover that beads are much more than commodities or a currency of exchange: they convey complex messages about the age, sex and identity of those who wear them. Produced in Europe for the African market from the 17th century onwards, they can be seen as one of the first symbols of globalization.
“Bead art in Africa” – The Mottas Collection from 7th June to 21st October 2018
This exhibition "Bead art in Africa" at the Rietberg Museum showcases a magnificent new collection of African bead-based art. Both the older and the more recent...
24 July 2018
Burma and its "Art deco" collection
Given that the maison Burma first came into being in 1927, it’s only natural that Alexandra Zarcate is inspired by Art deco. For her second collection, the brand’s new artistic director has delved into the archives rich in geometric pieces, earrings, chokers and cuffs – large bracelets worn higher up the arm. All these jewelry pieces are made of burmalite, Burma‘s specialty synthetic stone, and so are affordably priced between 850 and 4,900 euros.
Given that the maison Burma first came into being in 1927, it's only natural that Alexandra Zarcate is inspired by Art deco. For her second collection, the...
17 July 2018
"Wild Pop": Bulgari's high jewelry collection
Roma. The Italian jeweler Bulgari has created a Warholian ambience to present “Wild Pop”, its new high jewelry collection, which revives its exuberant style of the Seventies and Eighties.
Roma. The Italian jeweler Bulgari has created a Warholian ambience to present "Wild Pop", its new high jewelry collection, which revives its exuberant style of the...
17 July 2018
High jewelry echoes haute couture
High jewelry features a wealth of references to haute couture, one of its cult themes. Chopard and David presented some jewelry pieces at Giambattista Valli and Ralph and Russo runway shows. There are variations on trimmings and pompoms. Lace, a metaphor for femininity, is still an essential exercise of style, as its extreme delicacy and transparency have to be reproduced with the most unyielding of materials: gold and diamonds. Nothing shows off the skills of engravers, gem-setters and polishers more effectively.
High jewelry features a wealth of references to haute couture, one of its cult themes. Chopard and David presented some jewelry pieces at Giambattista Valli and Ralph...
17 July 2018
High jewelry : the majestic emerald
The latest high jewelry collections put the spotlight squarely on the emerald, with its intense green shade and mossy-looking inclusions known as jardins (“gardens”). The stones come from Colombia, Zambia and Afghanistan. They are mounted in the center of a piece or assembled, often with sapphires, in spectacular necklaces. All of them give a hieratic beauty to jewelry.
The latest high jewelry collections put the spotlight squarely on the emerald, with its intense green shade and mossy-looking inclusions known as jardins ("gardens")....
13 July 2018
The snow setting trend
The spotlight rarely falls on the art of setting: the way precious stones are fixed to jewelry. But as well as a few well-known classics like the claw and invisible settings, there are also lesser-known techniques like the snow setting. A feature of the latest Piaget, Cindy Chao, David Yurman and De Grisogono high jewelry collections, this involves taking dozens or even hundreds of micro-stones of different diameters and arranging them randomly. The idea is to create reflections, like snow glittering in the sun.
The spotlight rarely falls on the art of setting: the way precious stones are fixed to jewelry. But as well as a few well-known classics like the claw and invisible...
07 July 2018
Record for an Elsa Schiaparelli necklace at Sotheby's
This surreal necklace by Elsa Schiaparelli in Rhodoïd, with iridescent metal insects scuttling across its surface, has just been sold for 85,000 euros– 5 times its estimate (15-20,000 euros) at the Quidam de Revel sale at Sotheby’s in Paris. Designed in 1938 for the “Pagan collection” inspired by the Quattrocento painter Sandro Botticelli, it set the world record for a necklace by this designer. An identical model once owned by Millicent Rogers is now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
This surreal necklace by Elsa Schiaparelli in Rhodoïd, with iridescent metal insects scuttling across its surface, has just been sold for 85,000 euros– 5 times its...
21 June 2018
JAR at the gallery des Bijoux of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs
It’s worth visiting the gallery des Bijoux if only to see the bracelet of American jeweler JAR (the initials of Joël Arthur Rosenthal). His pieces are rarely on view, except at auctions. The enigmatic JAR has no boutique and few clients: he only works for those he considers worthy of his creations. This silver and ruby camellia (1995) is a real masterpiece. JAR mixes materials with scant concern for their intrinsic value and captures the velvety and imperceptible movement of petals like no-one else. His delirious quest for perfection has today made him a paragon for jewelers and designers alike.
It’s worth visiting the gallery des Bijoux if only to see the bracelet of American jeweler JAR (the initials of Joël Arthur Rosenthal). His pieces are rarely on...
20 June 2018
Gérard Sandoz ring acquired by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Thanks to the patronage of the Van Cleef & Arpels School, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs has just acquired Gérard Sandoz’s 1928 ring. The latter thus joins the Gallery des Bijoux, in which other Art Deco pieces by Templier, Després and Fouquet are exhibited. As you may be aware, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs collection, with its 4,000 items, was established mainly through donations. The 18th century items come largely from the collection of the goldsmith Boin-Taburet, while the chains are from the chainmaker Auguste Lion. Most of the 19th century pieces were donated by Henri Vever in 1924. More recently JAR, Lorenz Baümer and Gilles Jonemann also donated one of their jewelry pieces.
Thanks to the patronage of the Van Cleef & Arpels School, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs has just acquired Gérard Sandoz's 1928 ring. The latter thus joins the...
15 June 2018
10 atypical diamond rings at the Elsa Vanier Gallery
Diamond rings are traditionally associated with events such as engagements, wedding anniversaries and births. Elsa Vanier Gallery, known for its selection of avant-garde designers, offers an escape route from the underwhelming solitaire or the oh-so-predictable wedding ring. Phew!
Diamond rings are traditionally associated with events such as engagements, wedding anniversaries and births. Elsa Vanier Gallery, known for its selection of...
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Entrance of the Rietberg Museum, a glass pavilion called Emeraude
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The fashion designer Laduma Ngxokolo drew inspiration from the Xhosa people bead work
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Hermmann sample card of beads - 1942
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Twin figure decorated with beaded cloaks, 19th-20th century - Nigeria
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Burma - Cuff-bracelet in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 3,200
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Alexandra Zarcate, Burma's artistic director
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Burma - Cuff-bracelet in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 2,750
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In the Burma's archives
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Burma - Choker in rhodium silver, silver gilt and Burmalite™ - € 3,900
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Burma - Ring in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 1,450
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Burma - Cuff-bracelet in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 3,750
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Burma - Earrings in rhodium silver, silver gilt and Burmalite™ - € 1,350 et € 1,250
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Burma - Choker in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 4,900
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De Grisogono - Necklace in gold, sapphires and diamonds
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Cindy Chao - Earrings in silver, pink gold, conch pearls and lacquer
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De Grisogono - Ring in gold, sapphires and 5.10 carats diamond
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Piaget - Ring "Sunlight Escape" in gold, diamonds and tourmaline cabochon
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David Yurman - "Pétale" bracelet in gold and diamonds
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Elsa Schiaparelli - Rhodoïd necklace with metal insects - 1938
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Elsa Schiaparelli - Collier en Rhodoïd orné d'insectes en métal - 1938
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Musée des Arts Décoratifs - JAR, bracelet in whitened silver, enamel and rubies - 1995 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance
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Musée des Arts Décoratifs - JAR, bracelet in whitened silver, enamel and rubies - 1995 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Fabrice Schaeffer, "Amandine" ring in titanium, gold and diamonds - From €2,040
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Niessing, solitaires in gold - €3,850 et €14,300
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Jean Grisoni, ring in gold and diamond - From €4,300
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Philippe and Laurence Ratinaud, "Namibie" ring in blackened silver, gold and diamonds - From €1,300
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Marianne Anselin, "A nos futurs 60 ans" ring in weathered iron - €2,400
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Métylis, "Nébuleuse" ring in Hodomura paper, gold and diamonds - From €1,780
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Claire Wolfstirn, "Funambule" ring in gold and diamond - Price on request
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Galerie Elsa Vanier - Agathe Saint Girons, "Révolution" ring in silver, gold et 11 diamonds - From €9,200
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Elsa Vanier Gallery - Niessing, "Forum" ring in gold and diamond - From €7,525
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