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14 September 2018
Astier de Villatte's cup rings
Sculptor Serena Carone was clearly meant to meet the Astier de Villatte duo, specialists in white ceramic tableware. The same sense of poetry; the same love for detail and second-hand, forgotten or cast-off objects. Serena Carone has dreamed up ten cups, replacing the usual handle with a snake ring, bishop’s rings, and others decorated with an eye motif or a wealth of precious stones, like a maharajah’s. It just takes a nice cup of tea to get a ring on your finger…
€165 per cup
Sculptor Serena Carone was clearly meant to meet the Astier de Villatte duo, specialists in white ceramic tableware. The same sense of poetry; the same love for...
28 August 2018
Art nouveau jewelry in the "Alphonse Mucha" exhibition
Rather unexpectedly, jewelry features large in the “Alphonse Mucha” exhibition at the Musée du Luxembourg. In his posters, the celebrated Art Nouveau artist excelled in the design of astounding bib necklaces in gems and pearls, diadems with allegorical details and flowery crowns setting off luxuriant, wavy hair. The gold and opal chain on show reminds us that some of his magnificent pieces were given shape by the jeweler Georges Fouquet for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. Sarah Bernhardt was one of the most famous champions of Mucha.
“Alphonse Mucha” – From 12 September 2018 to 27 January 2019 at the Musée du Luxembourg
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Rather unexpectedly, jewelry features large in the "Alphonse Mucha" exhibition at the Musée du Luxembourg. In his posters, the celebrated Art Nouveau artist excelled...
06 August 2018
"Bead art in Africa" at the Rietberg Museum in Zürich
This exhibition “Bead art in Africa” at the Rietberg Museum showcases a magnificent new collection of African bead-based art. Both the older and the more recent jewelry reveals the extraordinary creativity of southern, eastern and western Africa. We discover that beads are much more than commodities or a currency of exchange: they convey complex messages about the age, sex and identity of those who wear them. Produced in Europe for the African market from the 17th century onwards, they can be seen as one of the first symbols of globalization.
“Bead art in Africa – The Mottas Collection” from 7th June to 21st October 2018
This exhibition "Bead art in Africa" at the Rietberg Museum showcases a magnificent new collection of African bead-based art. Both the older and the more recent...
The French Jewelry Shop
24 July 2018
Burma and its "Art deco" collection
Given that the maison Burma first came into being in 1927, it’s only natural that Alexandra Zarcate is inspired by Art deco. For her second collection, the brand’s new artistic director has delved into the archives rich in geometric pieces, earrings, chokers and cuffs – large bracelets worn higher up the arm. All these jewelry pieces are made of burmalite, Burma‘s specialty synthetic stone, and so are affordably priced between 850 and 4,900 euros.
Given that the maison Burma first came into being in 1927, it's only natural that Alexandra Zarcate is inspired by Art deco. For her second collection, the...
17 July 2018
"Wild Pop": Bulgari's high jewelry collection
Roma. The Italian jeweler Bulgari has created a Warholian ambience to present “Wild Pop”, its new high jewelry collection, which revives its exuberant style of the Seventies and Eighties.
Roma. The Italian jeweler Bulgari has created a Warholian ambience to present "Wild Pop", its new high jewelry collection, which revives its exuberant style of the...
17 July 2018
High jewelry echoes haute couture
High jewelry features a wealth of references to haute couture, one of its cult themes. Chopard and David presented some jewelry pieces at Giambattista Valli and Ralph and Russo runway shows. There are variations on trimmings and pompoms. Lace, a metaphor for femininity, is still an essential exercise of style, as its extreme delicacy and transparency have to be reproduced with the most unyielding of materials: gold and diamonds. Nothing shows off the skills of engravers, gem-setters and polishers more effectively.
High jewelry features a wealth of references to haute couture, one of its cult themes. Chopard and David presented some jewelry pieces at Giambattista Valli and Ralph...
17 July 2018
High jewelry : the majestic emerald
The latest high jewelry collections put the spotlight squarely on the emerald, with its intense green shade and mossy-looking inclusions known as jardins (“gardens”). The stones come from Colombia, Zambia and Afghanistan. They are mounted in the center of a piece or assembled, often with sapphires, in spectacular necklaces. All of them give a hieratic beauty to jewelry.
The latest high jewelry collections put the spotlight squarely on the emerald, with its intense green shade and mossy-looking inclusions known as jardins ("gardens")....
13 July 2018
The snow setting trend
The spotlight rarely falls on the art of setting: the way precious stones are fixed to jewelry. But as well as a few well-known classics like the claw and invisible settings, there are also lesser-known techniques like the snow setting. A feature of the latest Piaget, Cindy Chao, David Yurman and De Grisogono high jewelry collections, this involves taking dozens or even hundreds of micro-stones of different diameters and arranging them randomly. The idea is to create reflections, like snow glittering in the sun.
The spotlight rarely falls on the art of setting: the way precious stones are fixed to jewelry. But as well as a few well-known classics like the claw and invisible...
07 July 2018
Record for an Elsa Schiaparelli necklace at Sotheby's
This surreal necklace by Elsa Schiaparelli in Rhodoïd, with iridescent metal insects scuttling across its surface, has just been sold for 85,000 euros– 5 times its estimate (15-20,000 euros) at the Quidam de Revel sale at Sotheby’s in Paris. Designed in 1938 for the “Pagan collection” inspired by the Quattrocento painter Sandro Botticelli, it set the world record for a necklace by this designer. An identical model once owned by Millicent Rogers is now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
This surreal necklace by Elsa Schiaparelli in Rhodoïd, with iridescent metal insects scuttling across its surface, has just been sold for 85,000 euros– 5 times its...
21 June 2018
JAR at the gallery des Bijoux of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs
It’s worth visiting the gallery des Bijoux if only to see the bracelet of American jeweler JAR (the initials of Joël Arthur Rosenthal). His pieces are rarely on view, except at auctions. The enigmatic JAR has no boutique and few clients: he only works for those he considers worthy of his creations. This silver and ruby camellia (1995) is a real masterpiece. JAR mixes materials with scant concern for their intrinsic value and captures the velvety and imperceptible movement of petals like no-one else. His delirious quest for perfection has today made him a paragon for jewelers and designers alike.
It’s worth visiting the gallery des Bijoux if only to see the bracelet of American jeweler JAR (the initials of Joël Arthur Rosenthal). His pieces are rarely on...
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Astier de Villatte - Cup rings in white ceramic
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Astier de Villatte - Cup rings in white ceramic
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Alfons Mucha - Chain and pendants done by Georges Fouquet - Gold, enamel, water pearls, mother-of-pearl and gemstones, 1900 - Mucha foundation, Prague © Mucha trust 2018
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Alfons Mucha - Le Zodiaque, lithography, 1896 - Mucha Foundation, Prague © Mucha Trust 2018
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Alfons Mucha - Sarah Bernhardt, full portrait , study circa 1897 - Mucha foundation, Prague © Mucha trust 2018
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Alfons Mucha - Rêverie, 1897 / Salon des Cent : exposition de l'oeuvre de Mucha, 1897 - Mucha Foundation, Prague © Mucha Trust 2018
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Alfons Mucha - Study for the poster of the 6th Sokol's festival, 1911 / Médée, 1898 - Mucha Foundation © Mucha Trust 2018
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Alfons Mucha - Drawing for the Georges Fouquet shop in Paris, 1900 - Mucha Foundation © Mucha Trust 2018
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Alfons Mucha exhibition poster
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Entrance of the Rietberg Museum, a glass pavilion called Emeraude
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The fashion designer Laduma Ngxokolo drew inspiration from the Xhosa people bead work
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Hermmann sample card of beads - 1942
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Twin figure decorated with beaded cloaks, 19th-20th century - Nigeria
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Burma - Cuff-bracelet in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 3,200
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Alexandra Zarcate, Burma's artistic director
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Burma - Cuff-bracelet in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 2,750
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In the Burma's archives
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Burma - Choker in rhodium silver, silver gilt and Burmalite™ - € 3,900
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Burma - Ring in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 1,450
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Burma - Cuff-bracelet in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 3,750
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Burma - Earrings in rhodium silver, silver gilt and Burmalite™ - € 1,350 et € 1,250
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Burma - Choker in rhodium silver and Burmalite™ - € 4,900
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De Grisogono - Necklace in gold, sapphires and diamonds
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Cindy Chao - Earrings in silver, pink gold, conch pearls and lacquer
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De Grisogono - Ring in gold, sapphires and 5.10 carats diamond
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Piaget - Ring "Sunlight Escape" in gold, diamonds and tourmaline cabochon
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David Yurman - "Pétale" bracelet in gold and diamonds
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Elsa Schiaparelli - Rhodoïd necklace with metal insects - 1938
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Elsa Schiaparelli - Collier en Rhodoïd orné d'insectes en métal - 1938
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Musée des Arts Décoratifs - JAR, bracelet in whitened silver, enamel and rubies - 1995 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance
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Musée des Arts Décoratifs - JAR, bracelet in whitened silver, enamel and rubies - 1995 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance
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