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20 January 2020

An enamel plaque by Alexis Falize acquired by the MAD Paris

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs has just bought a unique book from Wartski, entitled, “Les Émaux Cloisonnés Anciens et Modernes” (“Ancient and Modern Cloisonné Enamels”). A very fitting purchase, because the enamel plaque, whose cover was inlaid and made by the jeweller Alexis Falize, was first exhibited there in 1869. It was Katherine Purcell, associate director of Wartski and author of “Falize: A Dynasty of Jewelers” who spotted it and describes it in this video. During your trip to see it at the MAD, don’t miss Falize’s other pieces in the gallery des Bijoux.

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs has just bought a unique book from Wartski, entitled, "Les Émaux Cloisonnés Anciens et Modernes" ("Ancient and Modern Cloisonné...

Cameo temptations

The cameo is also a classic motif well beyond the world of jewelry: here we see it in the form of a candle by Cire Trudon, as chocolate by À la Mère de Famille, as a mug handle by Astier de Villatte, as make-up by Ladurée or printed on a tea service by Bernardaud. The Fragonard house, which is very fond of this motif, uses it in soap and candles.

The cameo is also a classic motif well beyond the world of jewelry: here we see it in the form of a candle by Cire Trudon, as chocolate by À la Mère de Famille, as...

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30 December 2019

Two tombs just discovered in the ancient city of Pylos

Discoveries of this significance are extremely rare… Although long since plundered, it turns out that these two tombs of the Mycenaean civilization (between 1600 and 1100 BC) still conserved some elements of their treasure. The two American archaeologists from the University of Cincinnati (UC) have discovered inside a pile of gold leaf fragments that once covered the dark walls, along with pearls of malachite, carnelian and amber. As well as two gold jewels: a ring with two bulls and ears of barley engraved on it and a pendant representing the head of Hathor, the Egyptian goddess of love and beauty.

Discoveries of this significance are extremely rare... Although long since plundered, it turns out that these two tombs of the Mycenaean civilization (between 1600...

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04 November 2019

Rihanna: a version of the Classical cameo with a difference

For her Fenty jewelry collection, Rihanna has reinterpreted the cameo, a stone carved in relief where the profile of a wavy-haired Greco-Roman goddess is replaced with one of an African woman with braids styled into buns. To emphasize how important the depiction of hair is in cameos, Rihanna has staged her collection with her favorite photographer, the Nigerian Ruth Ossai, and hair stylist Issac Poleon. The magnificent images reveal extraordinary hair sculptures and cameos free from any hint of classicism.

For her Fenty jewelry collection, Rihanna has reinterpreted the cameo, a stone carved in relief where the profile of a wavy-haired Greco-Roman goddess is replaced...

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24 October 2019

An 8,000-year-old pearl at the Abu Dhabi Louvre

Exhibited for the first time ever, this natural pearl, the oldest known in the world, is one of the most moving pieces in the show “10,000 Years of Luxury” (which features 350 items from the Arts Décoratifs, Louvre and quai Branly museums). Discovered in a Neolithic site (between 5,800 and 5,600 BC), it has been dated at 8,000 years old by specialists. It also reminds us that the Gulf States were the centre of a flourishing pearl trade until the 1920s. To be continued on TFJP.

Exhibition: “10,000 Years of Luxury”, 30 October to 18 February 2020.

Exhibited for the first time ever, this natural pearl, the oldest known in the world, is one of the most moving pieces in the show "10,000 Years of Luxury" (which...

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24 September 2019

"Male Coquetries" by Marie Masson

The “Mirabilia” exhibition at the Mazlo gallery features designer jewelry inspired by the cabinet of curiosities. Some of the pieces that really appealed to me were by the young designer Marie Masson, who explores and disrupts gender issues with a series of brooches based on male rituals and toiletries. Using her favorite materials (human and animal attributes like fur, hair, skin and horse hair), she suggests the shaving brush or hairs stuck to the washbasin after shaving.

Until 26 October 2019 at the Mazlo gallery

The "Mirabilia" exhibition at the Mazlo gallery features designer jewelry inspired by the cabinet of curiosities. Some of the pieces that really appealed to me were...

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18 September 2019

The (a)symmetry of Victoire de Castellane

At Dior, Victoire de Castellane is particularly fond of applying asymmetry to earrings. She in on a quest for the quirky, seeking balance in imbalance. While keeping the same materials, she plays with scale, reverses the colors of precious stones or sets off a difference in shape with an identical construction. With Victoire de Castellane, a pair of earrings no longer consists of inseparable twins.

At Dior, Victoire de Castellane is particularly fond of applying asymmetry to earrings. She in on a quest for the quirky, seeking balance in imbalance. While keeping...

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13 September 2019

Marie-Hélène de Taillac: the book

In 1996, Marie-Hélène de Taillac invented a style, with her colored stones, Jaipur-based production in India and a gold that was almost pure, unlike the kind used in the West. Now her first book provides a taste of her world, with iconic photos of her designs and texts by Nathalie Rykiel, Inès de la Fressange and Jean-Philippe Delhomme.

In 1996, Marie-Hélène de Taillac invented a style, with her colored stones, Jaipur-based production in India and a gold that was almost pure, unlike the kind used...

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29 August 2019

Iris Apfel x Bernardaud

And they said she had retired from the business… At nearly 100, Iris Apfel proves yet again that in terms of style, age doesn’t count. A devotee of vintage and mix-and-match looks before their time, the American fashion icon with the huge round glasses has dreamed up a jewelry collection with porcelain specialist Bernardaud. True to her eccentric style, she has designed long necklaces and breastplate jewelry in pastel beads, an oversized pendant sporting a contorted mannequin and an owl brooch to be worn in pairs, as she does. An eternal inspiration.

And they said she had retired from the business… At nearly 100, Iris Apfel proves yet again that in terms of style, age doesn't count. A devotee of vintage and...

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14 August 2019

Fabio Salini's "Mirror"

The principle behind Italian jeweler Fabio Salini’s latest “Mirror” creations is the assemblage of precious stones like rubellite, rhodolite and tsavorite with geometric mirror components. The stone is reflected in multiple images, making it impossible to see the contours or guess at size or weight. For Salini, “The idea goes far beyond the aesthetic: it inspires a reflective approach and encourages a different imaginative concept of jewelry, which means ceasing to see stones in terms of intrinsic value.”

The principle behind Italian jeweler Fabio Salini's latest "Mirror" creations is the assemblage of precious stones like rubellite, rhodolite and tsavorite with...

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Inspired by the Cameo service of 797 pieces of Catherine II - €313
Ladurée - "Les Merveilleuses" blush - €43 one
Serena Carone et Astier de Villatte - Mug in ceramic - €176 one
Fragonard - Soap - €10 one
Cire Trudon - Candle from €18
À La Mère de Famille - Boxes of chocolates - €21,50 and €8,50

The gold pendant depicting the Egyptian goddess Hathor of beauty, love and music
The gold ring depicts two bulls flanked by sheaves of grain
The two Bronze Age tombs in Pylos, Greece.
Pylos, Greece

Fenty
Fenty
Fenty
Fenty
Fenty
Fenty

The 'Abu Dhabi Pearl'
The 'Abu Dhabi Pearl'
The 'Abu Dhabi Pearl’ has been discovered by archaeologists working at a Neolithic site on Marawah Island, just off the coast of Abu Dhabi

Dior Joaillerie - "Neige Diamants" earrings in gold and diamonds - 2019
Dior Joaillerie - "Guirlande de fleurs" hoops in gold, tourmalines, pink and red spinels, pearls, diamonds, turquoises, fire opale, tsavorites... - 2017
Dior Joaillerie - "Carnivo Papidevorus" earrings in gold, diamonds, spinels, Paraïba tourmalines, lacquer - 2007
Dior Joaillerie - "Dentelle Satin" in gold, diamonds and pink sapphires - 2018
Dior Joaillerie - Earrings in gold, blackened silver, diamonds and emeralds
Dior Joaillerie - "Bal de l'Opéra" earrings in gold, diamonds, rubies, pink and red spinels - 2011
Dior Joaillerie - "Bouquet de la Reine" earrings in golds, diamonds, tourmalines, pink sapphires, emeralds, lacquer - 2017
Dior Joaillerie - Exquise Rubis" in gold, diamonds, rubies, garnets, yellow and pink sapphires - 2013

Marie-Hélène de Taillac book, Rizzoli Publications
Marie-Hélène de Taillac - "Cabochon" rings in 22 carats gold and colored gemstones
Marie-Hélène de Taillac - "Princesse" rings in 22 carats gold and colored gemstones

Iris Apfel x Bernardaud - Necklace in porcelain
Iris Apfel x Bernardaud - Necklaces in porcelain beads
Iris Apfel x Bernardaud - Porcelain owl brooch
Iris Apfel wearing her owl broochs in pairs
Iris Apfel x Bernardaud - Pendant and long necklaces in porcelain beads
Iris Apfel x Bernardaud - Necklace in porcelain beads

Fabio Salini - Ring in gold, mirror, titanium, diamonds and a central Paraiba tourmaline - Earrings with peridots
Fabio Salini - Earrings in gold, mirror, rubellite, kunzite, rhodolite, pink sapphires and diamonds
Fabio Salini - Earrings in carbon fiber, gold, titanium, diamonds and tsavorites