Experience the excitement of jewelry
20 September 2021
The glazed tomato blushing in the garden, the blown glass bottle containing a twig, the snail roaming in the morning dew, the donkey in gray flannel or the painting palette of designer and illustrator Marin Montagut… Renard’s pendants are figurative, never conceptual. “My work is completely instinctive and must speak for itself,” says Renard. You get a sense of authenticity, rurality (she spends part of her time in Auvergne), the emotions generated by the tiny details of everyday life, and of work done by hand. Everything is made of bronze using the lost wax technique, and always in small series. “From time to time I work together with a ceramist or glassblower using the same approach, and the idea of making a profit doesn’t even come into it.” No wonder that Japan, where I discovered Renard a few years ago in a store in the Ayoama district, is so taken with his work.
14 September 2021
Gaia Repossi, artistic director of the brand founded by her father (now owned by LVMH), has created a jewelry collection inspired by the world of Robert Mapplethorpe. It was with one of his works (Puerto Rico 1981) that she began her personal collection of photographs. Drawing on the archives of the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and the Getty Research Institute, her pieces are based on those worn by the artist, such as the multi-chain diamond necklace. Others are interpretations of elements found in his photographs and collages. Among my favorites is the black and yellow gold ring, whose shape, which spans two fingers, is based on the American flag in which Lisa Lyon is wrapped in a 1982 photo. Not to mention the necklace adorned with a lobster claw (a recurring feature of Mapplethorpe’s work). In this type of “post-mortem collaboration”, it’s always intriguing to wonder what the original artist would have made of it all – given that he used to make jewelry for himself and his friends…
09 September 2021
This very young brand (which uses recycled gold and synthetic diamonds) has taken on designer Philippe Airaud, whose talent is beyond question (he often works in the shadows for major houses). True to his ultra-minimalist style, he works with curves evoking “the traces of the wind in the desert” – an inspiration is reflected in two flagship models: an open necklace and an open ring with a synthetic diamond at each end. They face each other, one emerald cut, the other oval. A neo Toi & Moi, or in the words of Airaud himself, “a face-to-face encounter”. After red, yellow and white gold, this latest version comes in black, matte and charcoal gold. The asymmetrical synthetic stones, set in yellow gold, create luminous counterpoints. Beautiful.
08 September 2021
Magda Benmlih offers up a new beautiful interpretation of the signet ring, the genderless jewel par excellence. Her unique model is made of gold or silver-colored steel. “Gold and preciousness are not obsessions of mine”, explains the young woman who works for jewelry brands but also “loved working with Elie Top at Lanvin”, in the glory days of Alber Elbaz. The huge asset of this jewel, with its perfect proportions and rounded corners, is that it is infinitely customizable with a beautifully exquisite engraving, not unlike a tattoo. It can be stamped with your initials, a date, a sentence, a drawing… It’s entirely up to you and takes only 3 weeks. We await with bated breath the next chapter in this story, which only started only 5 months ago. Bring it on!
From €90 @stamped_official
25 August 2021
The link dates back to the early 1940s, when the jeweler’s signature piece – the ballerina clip – first appeared. In addition to jewelry and watchmaking creations, Van Cleef & Arpels went on to collaborate with Balanchine and more recently with Benjamin Millepied. Company CEO Nicolas Bos is now taking the connection to another level with a “multifaceted” sponsorship program to “support choreographic heritage and contemporary creativity, and share this artistic universe with as many people as possible”. The initiative is motivated by the same spirit as Van Cleef’s support for The School of Jewelry Arts, with one difference – there is no longer any link with jewelry. The culmination of this program, called “Dance Reflections by Van Cleef & Arpels” and directed by Serge Laurent (formerly of the Pompidou Center), will be an annual festival in partnership with the Tate and the Royal Opera. The first event in London, in April 2022, will present 18 works from the 1970s to the present day, by both well-known and unknown artists.
21 May 2021
In its exhibition “Napoléon et Joséphine – Une histoire (extra)ordinaire”, the jeweler Chaumet presents (among many other jewels) acrostic bracelets that belonged to the empress. By deciphering the initials of each stone, we discover a word or a message, in this case the first names of her children: Eugène and Hortense. These museum pieces are obviously not for sale but this beautiful idea can easily be appropriated. Indeed, Chaumet still makes such sentimental jewelry, in the form of bracelets, in accordance with each person’s story. The unique message is thus known only to the wearer.
Discover the exhibition “Napoléon et Joséphine – Une histoire (extra)ordinaire”
02 May 2021
By Marie-Laure Cassius-Duranton.
Auctions are not only about jewelry that once belonged to our ancestors. Three creations of Yasuki Hiramatsu (1926-2012), considered the first contemporary Japanese jeweler-artist, have just been sold by De Zwann (Amsterdam) – marking a first. Highly appreciated by the initiated, his pieces are usually sold in specialized galleries and have no auction price yet. The showpiece, a square brooch in crumpled gold, is characteristic of Hiramatsu’s sensual relationship with the material. Coming from a family of metalworkers, Hiramatsu finely rolled his gold, then bent, crumpled, hammered or beat it to create textured surfaces. The shapes are simple, the most important thing is the relationship of the metal to the light. The brooch (a similar example can be seen at the Victoria & Albert Museum), estimated at €1800-2,200, went under the hammer for €3,200.
28 April 2021
Par Marie-laure Cassius-Duranton.
The highly original and audacious collection of the American heiress and businesswoman Michelle Smith has just been sold at Sotheby’s New York. Among the sculptures, furniture, vases, and jewelry by Giacometti, Lalanne, Noll, Cartier and Tiffany & Co, was the largest private collection of Hemmerle pieces. The latter was a hit with the bidders… With their strong design, impeccable workmanship and atypical selection of materials, the German jeweler’s creations stand out for their remarkable color and texture. Among the most surprising pieces were a necklace made of fossilized sea urchins with a patinated bronze clasp sold for $32,760, and another made of ancient walrus teeth combined with intertwined quartz and carnelian balls, which fetched $25,200.
27 April 2021
In France, a few major auction houses – Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Artcurial and Aguttes – dominate jewelry and watch auctions as well as the media – the top ten account for 41% of all jewelry and watch sales. However it is little known that there are in fact 415 auction houses in the country, 68% of which are small companies with annual sales of less than 2 million euros. Scattered throughout Paris and the regions, they too offer jewelry and watches, most often in regular sales (along with furniture, cars and even DIY tools). In other words, they still offer non-wealthy amateurs a rich experience, where real bargains can be found. Keep an eye out!
From CVV (Conseil des Ventes Volontaires)
26 April 2021
Exit Reed Karkoff, artistic director of America’s Tiffany & Co. Following the takeover by LVMH (for 15.8 billion dollars), he makes way for Ruba Abu-Nimah. She may as yet be unknown to the general public, but fashion and graphic design aficionados follow her work very closely, as evidenced by her Instagram account with its nearly 70,000 followers. A Swiss of Palestinian origin, she’s a Parsons School of Design graduate, whose career began in the 90s in Paris at ELLE, followed by Glamour. She then became the first female artistic director of Elle US before heading up the global creative team at Shiseido and Revlon. With Ruba Abu-Nimah, Tiffany & Co has guaranteed itself an ultra-hyped global vision and a rejuvenated clientele. Watch this space.
Experience the excitement of jewelry
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