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23 May 2018

U. A. M. jewelers at the Centre Pompidou

Alongside works by architects, builders and interior designers, the exhibition “U. A. M. : une aventure moderne” features around twenty jewelry items from the collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. In 1929, designers including Jean Desprès, Jean Fouquet, Gérard Sandoz and Raymond Templier joined the U. A. M. (Union of Modern Artists), eager to move fast, change the world and create something new. A world away from jewelers like Boucheron and Cartier, these inventors of modern jewelry banished all superfluous ornamentation, simplified lines and found stimulation in machines, speed and mechanical pieces like nuts, bolts and ball bearings. To create more affordable pieces, they used cheaper stones like citrine and amethyst, or lacquer. And yet they only really appealed to enthusiasts and an elite that included the Maharajah of Indore. The U. A. M. was dissolved in 1958.

 

« U. A. M., une aventure moderne », 30 May to 27 August 2018 at the Centre Pompidou

To read : « Raymond Templier – Le bijou moderne » by Laurence Mouillefarine and Véronique Ristelhueber,  Norma Editions , 2005.

Alongside works by architects, builders and interior designers, the exhibition "U. A. M. : une aventure moderne" features around twenty jewelry items from the...

17 May 2018

Christie's in Geneva: 50 years of sales

The total earnings from the last Christie’s sale in Geneva: $81,620,500. The three top prizes were a Harry Winston ring with a 50.47-carat diamond ($6,500,000), a 20.49-carat daffodil diamond ($5,587,500) and a Tiffany & Co. necklace. A few days previously, François Curiel, President Europe and Asia, recalled that the first Christie’s sale in Geneva dated back to 1969. It was dedicated to the jewels of the actress Nina Dyer, who had taken her own life in Paris a few months earlier. Christie’s search for a more liberal country was prompted by the high customs duties on importing jewelry to London. The company first chose Switzerland over Hong Kong which, at the end of the 1960s, was still too long a journey. Then it opted for Geneva, which was considered more pleasant and cheerful than Zurich. The proceeds from the sale, 10 million Swiss francs, was a record at the time.

The total earnings from the last Christie's sale in Geneva: $81,620,500. The three top prizes were a Harry Winston ring with a 50.47-carat diamond ($6,500,000), a...

04 May 2018

GemGenève, the new jewelry fair

Disappointed by traditional fairs, antique jewelry dealer Thomas Faerber and precious stone dealer Ronny Totah launched GemGenève. For this new show, the well-known duo immediately mobilized a hundred exhibitors, from Pat Saling and Véronique Bamps to the ultra-discreet jeweler Robert Procop, who presents a collection created with Angelina Jolie and her daughter Zahara. The show also introduces contemporary designers such as Julia Muggenburg for Belmacz, Fabio Salini and Nadia Morgenthaler. This latest gathering, which promises the very best from collectors and curators, looks set to be very exciting indeed. For all the latest from GemGenève, read The French Jewelry Post from May 9, 2018.

 

From May 9 to May 13 2018 at Palexpo, Geneva

Disappointed by traditional fairs, antique jewelry dealer Thomas Faerber and precious stone dealer Ronny Totah launched GemGenève. For this new show, the well-known...

19 April 2018

To read, "Figures"

After “La Faune” and “La Flore“, “Figures”, a book produced with support from the Ecole des Arts Joailliers, completes the triptych devoted to jewelry by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. In it you will find insect-women by René Lalique, Venus at her toilet, portraits of the Duke of Montebello with his children engraved on seashells, death’s heads and joined hands forming a ring. These human figures have numerous meanings: symbols of love, signs of political affiliation or representations of vanity or devotion, like the Christ carved on the boxwood beads of a rosary. Meanwhile, more recent pieces like the ballerina-clip by Van Cleef & Arpels and the “Mouth” necklace by Claude Lalanne are purely aesthetic. Fascinating stuff.

After "La Faune" and "La Flore", "Figures", a book produced with support from the Ecole des Arts Joailliers, completes the triptych devoted to jewelry by the Musée...

03 April 2018

The mystery of George Sand’s ring

No one had yet identified the stone adorning the ring that George Sand received from her grandmother, who had received it in turn from the Grande Dauphine Marie-Josèphe (mother of Louis XVI). There was talk at first of a bright red ruby and then of a “colourless sapphire”. Thanks to the miniaturization of tools, the experts Delphine Chabert, Gérard Panczer and Geoffray Riondet have finally been able to examine the stone at the Museum of Romantic Life, where it is on display. The mystery has been solved: it is a barely bluish sapphire placed on a silver foil colored red to imitate the intensity of ruby. Nevertheless, this ring described by George Sand in “L’histoire de ma vie” remains extremely precious.

Gemmological results unveiled at the Objet d’art fair, from 13 to 15 April, 2018.

No one had yet identified the stone adorning the ring that George Sand received from her grandmother, who had received it in turn from the Grande Dauphine...

28 March 2018

The "Styloïde", newly arrived at the gallery des Bijoux

In perfect osmosis with the human anatomy, the “Styloïde” bracelet by designer Lise Vanrycke (1999) has just entered the gallery des Bijoux collection at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. This link bracelet developed with a watchmaker, over 3 years, bears the name of the small pointed bone located at the side of the wrist it graces. Extensible, and completely body conscious, it harks back to the “Bone” bracelet, molded on the wrist in the 70s by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany&Co.

In perfect osmosis with the human anatomy, the "Styloïde" bracelet by designer Lise Vanrycke (1999) has just entered the gallery des Bijoux collection at the Musée...

21 March 2018

Artists’ jewelry in Dubai 

The impact of the worldwide success of Diane Venet’s exhibition has traveled as far as Dubai. At his gallery, Stéphane Custot is organizing the first sale of artists’ jewelry in the Middle East, including 80 pieces of Ron Arad, Calder, Niki de Saint Phalle, Anish Kapoor, Pablo Reinoso and Herve van der Straeten. Unlike Diane Venet, Custot does not exclude designers, as in his eyes, such ‘borders have disappeared’. Aiming for an ultra-international feel, he has included 4 Oriental artists, Lebanese and Iranians such as Pouran Jinchi. ‘This exhibition-sale should have no problem appealing to its target audience – the younger generation: they love jewelry that makes it easier to access art, another of their passions,’ explains Custot, describing the recent opening at the Louvre Abu Dhabi.

“Art & Jewelry” until 2nd June 2018

Scenography & design Vincent Coste Architecte © Pia Torelli

 

The impact of the worldwide success of Diane Venet's exhibition has traveled as far as Dubai. At his gallery, Stéphane Custot is organizing the first sale of...

12 March 2018

The necklaces of Roger Vivier's new artistic director, Gherardo Felloni

Artistic coordinator of Miu Miu accessories since 2014, the Italian designer has now taken over from Bruno Frisoni. He is a keen collector of 18th and 19th century antique jewelry sets, generally unearthed at the Gioielleria Pennisi, in Milan. His particular quirk is that he keeps his rings, earrings and bracelets locked away, but wears the necklaces over masculine sky-blue checked or pinstripe shirts.

Artistic coordinator of Miu Miu accessories since 2014, the Italian designer has now taken over from Bruno Frisoni. He is a keen collector of 18th and 19th century...

01 March 2018

Georges Braque in "Artists' jewelry from Calder to Koons"

The exhibition features five jewelry items by one of the French artists who founded Cubism. In 1961, the octogenarian Georges Braque asked the jeweler- lapidary Heger de Löewenfeld to transform a series of his gouaches based on Greek mythology. “Find the truth in the object; don’t represent it. Prove its existence, but don’t get hung up on similarities,” were his instructions. Two of the pieces on show belong to Diane Venet’s collection, and two others to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which in 1963, at André Malraux’s behest, devoted an exhibition to them called “Bijoux de Braque”.

“Artists’ jewelry from Calder to Koons – Diane Venet’s ideal collection” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, from March 7th until July 8th, 2018

Image : Georges Braque and Heger of Löwenfeld

The exhibition features five jewelry items by one of the French artists who founded Cubism. In 1961, the octogenarian Georges Braque asked the jeweler- lapidary...

26 February 2018

Jeff Koons in "Artists' jewelry from Calder to Koons"

A violent polemic is raging over the installation of “Bouquet of Tulips” between the Musée d’Art Moderne and the Palais de Tokyo. Meanwhile, the show at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs includes another Jeff Koons piece that has spawned no objections or petitions: the platinum “Rabbit” pendant made for fashion designer Stella McCartney. Only 7.5 cm high (as opposed to the 12-meter “Bouquet of Tulips”), this piece of jewelry expresses the ultra-kitsch approach of the American artist in a nutshell.

“Artists’ jewelry from Calder to Koons – Diane Venet’s ideal collection” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, from March 7th until July 8th, 2018

Rabbit necklace, 2005-2009 –  Jeff Koons edition for Stella McCartney – Diane Venet’s collection

A violent polemic is raging over the installation of "Bouquet of Tulips" between the Musée d’Art Moderne and the Palais de Tokyo. Meanwhile, the show at the Musée...
  • Raymond Templier - Cigaret case in silver and lacquer, 1930 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Gabriel Guévrékian, villa Noailles' garden - 1926-1928 Picture Thérèse Bonney © Courtesy Bancroft Library, Univ. of California / Raymond Templier, brooch in platinum, onyx, frosted crystal, diamonds - 1929 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Raymond Templier - Bracelet in gold, platinum and diamonds, 1937 / Ring in platinum, diamonds, 1937 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Eileen Gray and Jean Badovici Villa E 1027, 1926-1929 © Imbernon éditions, Marseille, 2006

  • Jean Fouquet - Bracelet in gold, platinum, diamonds, amethysts and moonstones - 1937 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Robert Delaunay - Manège de cochons, 1922 © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI

  • Jean Desprès - Ring in silver, 1930 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Roger Parry, photomontage Sans titre - Ca 1929 © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI / Jean Fouquet, clip in gold, lacquer and diamonds - 1937 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Jean Desprès - Necklace in vermeil, ca 1937 © MAD Paris/Jean Tholance

  • To read, the first monographic work dedicated to Raymond Templier by Laurence Mouillefarine - Norma Editions

  • Christie's - Harry Winston ring with a 50.47-carats diamond sold $6,500,000

  • Christie's - Ring with a 20.49-carats fancy vivid yellow diamond sold $5,587,500

  • Christies - Tiffany & Co necklace in emeralds ans diamonds sold $6,275,000 - XIXe century

  • The first Christie's sale in Geneva in 1969 was dedicated to the jewels of the actress Nina Dyer - With the Prince Sadruddin Khan

  • Faerber

  • Belmacz

  • Nadia Morgenthaler

  • Antwerp Cut

  • Pat Saling - René Lalique neclace

  • Michael Gad

  • Procop - Collection "Style of Jolie"

  • Emmanuel Tarpin - Bcucles d'oreilles en ??? et diamants

  • EMCO

  • "Figures" by Patrick Mauriès and Evelyne Possémé

  • Eugénie O'Kin au Musée des Arts Décoratifs - Pendentif "Tête de femme" en or et ivoire, 1920/23 © MAD, Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Claude Lalanne at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - Necklace "Mouth" in gilded bronze, 1977 © MAD, Paris/Jean-Marie del Moral © ADAGP, Paris 2018

  • Alphonse Fouquet at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - Châtelaine "Bianca Capello" in gold, enamel on mother-of-pearl, diamonds - Exposition universelle 1878 © MAD, Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Alberto Giacometti at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - Bracelet "Visage de chimère" or "Naïade" in gilded bronze, ca 1935 © MAD, Paris/ Jean-Marie del Moral

  • Bracelet at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs -Gold and eggshell cameos featuring the duc of Montebello and his children - Ca 1810 © MAD, Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Jacomijn van der Donk at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs - Necklace "Hands" in oxidized silver lace © MAD, Paris/Jean Tholance

  • Vanrycke at the gallery des Bijoux - Pink golden "Styloïde", back and front, 2016 © Sandrine Merle

  • Vanrycke - "Styloïde" in gold and diamonds

  • 'Art & Jewelry', Custot gallery - Scenography & design Vincent Coste Architecte © Pia Torelli

  • 'Art & Jewelry', Custot gallery - Scenography & design Vincent Coste Architecte © Pia Torelli

  • Pablo Reinoso - 'Spaghetti' earrings in gold, 2014 - MiniMasterpiece Editions © Yann Delacour

  • Anish Kapoor - 'Water' pendant in gold and enamel, 2013

  • Bernar Venet - 'Indeterminate Line' ring, 2017 © Yann Delacour

  • Pouran Jinchi -'Alef' cuff bracelet in copper and enamel, 2017

  • Niki de Saint Phalle - 'Assemblage' necklace in gold and enamel, 1974-2015

  • Alexander Calder - Brass necklace, c. 1940 - Courtesy of Louisa Guinness

  • Georges Braque, Heger de Löwenfeld Editions - Ring "Hécate XIII" in gold and agate, 1960-1962 - Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs

  • Georges Braque, Heger de Löwenfeld Editions - Clip "Héra" in gold, sapphires set in platinum - Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs

  • Georges Braque, Heger de Löwenfeld Editions - Clip "Hadès" in gold and diamonds, 1962 - Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs

  • Georges Braque, Heger de Löwenfeld Editions - Clip "Astéria" in gold and diamonds - Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Collection

  • Catalog of the exhibition "Bijoux de Braque" at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 1963

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