Experience the excitement of jewelry
19 September 2017
A necklace by this young British designer recently entered one of the world’s most glittering collections: the London museum’s jewellery gallery. This contains some 3,500 pieces dating from the Middle Ages to the present day, including diamonds worn by Catherine the Great of Russia, the emeralds of Joséphine de Beauharnais, Lady Mountbatten’s “Tutti Frutti” bandeau and a 17th century Norwegian bridal crown. The V&A only accepts jewellery of the first water, clearly! It has to represent a particular style, period or technical feat – like this piece, consisting of stems and flowers cut from thin gold leaf linked with filaments, also in gold. It then takes on an aura with a wholly different dimension, as part of the panorama of history.
14 September 2017
Should we invest in diamonds? How much a carat is a VVS1 according to Rapaport today? Forget all these annoying questions by buying the American brand Stubbs & Wootton with their humorous and offbeat take on a diamond embroidered on these black velvet slippers.
06 September 2017
The Place Vendôme companies have abandoned the proceedings for the second year running – to the delight of various art gallery owners and dealers, who viewed their success and the phenomenal attention drawn by their lavish stands with a jaundiced eye. Some lesser-known independent foreigners have now filled the gap: Boghossian, Moussaieff and India’s Nirav Modi, all former dealers in diamonds or precious stones, and the designers Anna Hu from Taiwan and the UK’s Glenn Spiro. Will French jewelers be returning next year, as the Biennale hopes? Watch this space…
06 September 2017
The Parisian gallery owner is presenting 17 neo-totems, assemblages of stones in subdued tone and that are veined, speckled, pocked and striped. “These objects have a strange presence because they are imbued with the culture of a collector, one who has made them simply on a whim, without any specific reason or artistic intent.” They are put together from elements like stones from lapidaries, a porphyry handle from an old Puiforcat ice bucket whose shape evokes the bust of an emperor, a 15th century Venetian circular floor tile, and from rock crystal, the only transparent stone. There is also orbicular diorite, a white-spotted granite extracted from a mine in Corsica today closed. Each has the feel of a 19th century object brought back from the Grand Tour, a trip through Europe made in the eighteenth century by young aristocratic men to finish off their education.
Between 2,000 and 7,000 euros – From September 12th to 30th 2017 at the Galerie Alexandre Biaggi, 14 rue de Seine 75006 Paris.
06 September 2017
You can now book a visit to this remarkable exhibition: the American artist‘s first in France. His well-known bakelite “Bunny Bangle” in no way encapsulates his polymorphic output… The school has decided to present two series of steel jewellery, sometimes set with stones, featuring dog collars (now celebrated in the book Necks) and bangles. To help visitors understand the exceptional work of this eccentric artist who belongs to no system, has no agent or gallery and produces very few pieces, the school will also be presenting sculptures, objects and paintings. Everything smacks of the uncompromising and obsessional, like the box for which he made each of thousands of tiny gold balls, and the 1m x 1m 50 paintings, formed not by giant brushstrokes but by thousands and thousands of lines traced with a pen. This accounts for the extraordinary rarity of his pieces, considered works of art by museums and collectors.
13 to 31 October 2017, Monday to Saturday from 2 to 7 p.m. – L’École des Arts Joailliers – 31, rue Danielle Casanova, 75001 Paris.
04 September 2017
The Austrian specialist in cut crystal, whose founder Daniel Swarovski stated that “diamonds are for royalty, I want a diamond for every woman” has written the next chapter in its story with a collection of cultured diamonds. Produced under high-pressure, this diamond has the same chemical composition and characteristics as those formed billions of years ago in the bowels of the earth. Will its price that’s 30% lower and its ethical nature make it an equal to the natural stone, one that’s considered a miracle of nature?
27 August 2017
A tribute to this French jeweler who died just a short time ago. On seeing the jeweler’s “5th Avenue” ring, the French intellectual, Roger Caillois, was struck by its lightness and the purity obtained by the play of negative space that for him inspired reverie, and thus he decided to entrust Vendome with the making of his sword*. As tradition would have it, the materials and designs used for the sword should symbolize the work of its future owner. Roger Caillois chose the moldavite from Czechoslovakia which recalls his wife’s country of origin. The five diamonds forming the Southern Cross evoke the Gallimard book collection of which he was the director, and the tourmaline from Brazil relates to the privileged links he shared with this country. There are other symbols besides, but this sword marks especially the beginning of a friendship between the two mineral enthusiasts, so much so that Roger Caillois, a collector, even devoted a collection of poems to these entitled The Writing of Stones.
* Conserved in the Musée des Confluences in Lyon
17 August 2017
Some jewelry pieces exhibited in the “Medusa” exhibition are quite affordable, like this glass cocoon by Agathe Saint-Girons. The artist designed it for a rather unconventional wedding proposal: the one who receives it must smash it into a thousand pieces to gain possession of the gold ring it contains within. “The gesture symbolizing acceptance is much more of a commitment than opening a jewel box,” explains the designer, Agathe Saint-Girons, who provides a manual along with it. “Offer it as is, then break the glass and free the feelings”. Any glass cocoon that remains intact does not promise a good future …
On sale at the Elsa Vanier Gallery.
10 August 2017
Positioned in unusual places, the brooches from Hermès and Jieun Kim corkscrew, gather and smock the fabric in a somewhat poetic way. By way of anecdote, Jieun Kim produced the small golden metal hand in 2015 for the “Unpinned” exhibition at the Foundling Museum, a former orphanage in London. Infinitely touching, “it represents the hand of a child desperately clinging to her mother’s clothes,” says the young designer.
07 August 2017
One is known for her clothes, the other for her jewelry. Both are into experimentation, and with four hands they have created a collection inspired by the traditional long shepherd’s garb. The ample tunics, apron-skirts and dresses are cut from white or black rigid technical netting. In silver or copper, the thin threads give shape, finish a sleeve that seems to fray or mimic cross-stitching that smocks the fabric. In this collection as theatrical as it is poetic, the jewelry and the fabric become one.
© Team Peter Stigter, Amsterdam Fashion Week 2017
Experience the excitement of jewelry
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