26 February 2016
On a thread
In jewelry, skinny is also trendy.
Jewelry made up of simple gold threads… Solange Azagury-Partridge likes them to take a calligraphic twist and transforms them into a succession of letters like “darling” or “marry me”. A sweet way to send messages, adopted today by jewelry brands like Atelier Paulin or Théa. The gold threads also follow straight lines and geometric curves intersecting in space to form pyramidal cages, as in the case of Rachel Perez Bitan. The American, Jacqueline Rabun, encases her diamond in a golden grid cage. Some jewelry pieces are fashioned in full or in thin strokes that wrap gently around the finger or wrist. Sophie Bille Brahe and Agathe Saint Girons twist the golden threads to form earrings evoking squiggles.
The principle is not new, already Calder had sculpted immateriality in an extraordinary way: with a simple piece of wire and a fluid gesture he traced an outline to achieve perfect balance and to create movement. By creating a jewelry piece with 5% precious metal and 95% empty space, he managed the feat of making us see what doesn’t really exist.
The scale of this trend for the filiform is maybe a response to a desire for minimalism, but not only… The increase in gold prices over recent years also has a part to play. “Removing 4 grams of gold can make a 100-euro difference to the cost price and 400 to 700 euros to the sale price“, discreetly explains a professional. A blessing in disguise.