21 October 2021
Brands offering vermeil, gold-plating and gold-plated brass are flying high. This is due to their popularity with customers who are sensitive both to price (they’re less expensive than gold) and to all things ultra-creative. However, it’s important to be aware of the difference between the three. Used since ancient times, vermeil is silver covered with a layer of gold of at least 5 microns. It comes with a mandatory hallmark, a V (for vermeil) next to a diamond and an oval – hallmarks of the manufacturer and importer. Gold plating is brass coated with a layer of gold of between 3 and 5 microns or Pomponne, a copper and gold lining. It bears no particular hallmark, but some manufacturers include their logo along with the number of gold carats. Finally, gold-plated brass is an alloy, a mixture of copper and zinc, covered with a layer of gold of less than 1 micron. Of course, vermeil remains the most expensive of these metals because it is tied to the price of silver, but over time, thanks to silver’s adhesion, the gold is slower to disappear.
Studio Deve - "Two Meters.Five" pendant in vermeil - €1 300
4 CROSSES - Earrings in 18K gold-plated brass - €89
Mara - "Hope" triple hoop ear cuff in vermeil - Single €265, pair €385
La Monnaie de Paris - Necklace and bracelet in gold-plated brass, ring in gold-plated brass and silver - €129, €139 and €149
Atelier Paulin - Bracelet in gold filled 14K wire - Around €220
Charlotte Chesnais - Ring in silver and vermeil
Completed Works - "Ribbon" earrings in vermeil - €225
Bottega Veneta - Necklace in gold-plating - €1,600
Sophie Buhai - Necklace in vermeil / Dear Charlotte - Ring in pink gold-plated - €70 / Laura Lombardi - Earrings in pink 14K gold-plated
Perrine Taverniti - "Monceau" head band in 24K gold-plated brass - €335
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