21 October 2021

The big winners: vermeil, gold plating and gold-plated brass

Brands offering vermeil, gold-plating and gold-plated brass are flying high. This is due to their popularity with customers who are sensitive both to price (they’re less expensive than gold) and to all things ultra-creative. However, it’s important to be aware of the difference between the three. Used since ancient times, vermeil is silver covered with a layer of gold of at least 5 microns. It comes with a mandatory hallmark, a V (for vermeil) next to a diamond and an oval – hallmarks of the manufacturer and importer. Gold plating is brass coated with a layer of gold of between 3 and 5 microns or Pomponne, a copper and gold lining. It bears no particular hallmark, but some manufacturers include their logo along with the number of gold carats. Finally, gold-plated brass is an alloy, a mixture of copper and zinc, covered with a layer of gold of less than 1 micron. Of course, vermeil remains the most expensive of these metals because it is tied to the price of silver, but over time, thanks to silver’s adhesion, the gold is slower to disappear.

  • Studio Deve - "Two Meters.Five" pendant in vermeil - €1 300

  • 4 CROSSES - Earrings in 18K gold-plated brass - €89

  • Mara - "Hope" triple hoop ear cuff in vermeil - Single €265, pair €385

  • La Monnaie de Paris - Necklace and bracelet in gold-plated brass, ring in gold-plated brass and silver - €129, €139 and €149

  • Atelier Paulin - Bracelet in gold filled 14K wire - Around €220

  • Charlotte Chesnais - Ring in silver and vermeil

  • Completed Works - "Ribbon" earrings in vermeil - €225

  • Bottega Veneta - Necklace in gold-plating - €1,600

  • Sophie Buhai - Necklace in vermeil / Dear Charlotte - Ring in pink gold-plated - €70 / Laura Lombardi - Earrings in pink 14K gold-plated

  • Perrine Taverniti - "Monceau" head band in 24K gold-plated brass - €335

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