See

Business

28 July 2016

Zoom on emeralds

What you should know about this green gem.

 

1. The comeback

– Van Cleef & Arpels has devoted its Émeraude en Majesté collection to emeralds. The pieces revolve around origins, sizes, endless green intensities, color combinations, figurative or geometric mounts and settings.

– Such creators as the Brazilian Fernando Jorge, the Colombian Lucia Bueno-Mallarino, the Lebanese Dina Kamal or the American Cathy Waterman, the feature it. Nina Runsdorf uses it in slices trimmed with diamonds. Selim Mouzannar uses a rare variety, called trapiche, characterized by inclusions forming a six-pointed star pattern.

– The emerald’s strong return has been largely orchestrated by powerful mining companies like Gemfields Minerias Texas and Colombia (MTC) in Muzo that “lend” stones to designers and jewelers.

 

2. Producing countries

“Colombian emeralds dominated the market until the mid-twentieth century, before being slightly overtaken by those of Zambia. This country, with its Kagem mine, now represents 35% of world production. Brazil is in third position with 15%, ahead of Russia, Madagascar and Afghanistan,” says Jean-Claude Michelou, in charge of communication at the International Colored Gemstone Association, and Technical Advisor to the United Nations on traceability of gold and colored stones.

 

3. Challenges

– Like many colored stones, this green gem is mainly extracted in artisanal mines that often escape control and regulation. “Currently 63% of emerald mining is undertaken without meeting legal extraction standards and partially evade taxing,” according to Maria Isabel Ulloa, Deputy British mines.

– The quality of emeralds poses a number of problems. To make them more transparent and pure, resin treatments and oiling is used to fill internal micro-cracks. With time, the treatments tend to yellow or fall out.

– Producing countries, governments and other stakeholders participated in the first International Emerald Symposium in Bogotá in 2015. The mission was to try to harmonize the global market and make it more transparent, which had already been achieved with diamonds.

Most popular articles

Paired earwear

With Paired, Kate Fichard and Margot Grangeon have created the first brand of earwear jewelry to dress hearing aids. The auditory equivalent of eyewear.

"It's time to change!" by the Madnetwork consulting agency

“It is undoubtedly the luxury segment that has suffered the most from the crisis,” the Madnetwork consulting agency’s study states.

Courbet raises €8 million in funds

In the midst of the lockdown, Courbet succeeded in raising an impressive €8 million. A conversation with Manuel Mallen, founder and president of this...

"Colored diamonds: flawed is beautiful"

Still ignored as late as the 70s and 80s, colored diamonds are now fetching astronomical prices at auction. Their unique value based on nothing but the...

"Inside Out: Journey into the center of a gem" with Billie Hughes

Gemologist and co-founder of Lotus Gemology Laboratory, Billie Hughes revealed the inner world of gemstones to us through her fascinating photomicrographs.

Jewelry at the price of gold

What is the impact of the price of gold on the price of jewelry and on trends?