See

Business

29 April 2016

Weightlessness…

In the collections stars, constellations, moons and suns gravitate.

Buried thousands of kilometers below the Earth’s surface, precious gemstones are intimately linked to the stars gravitating far above thousands of light-years away. Yet they both share the same sources, as they were all formed billions of years ago under extreme temperatures and phenomenal pressure. Might this explain these jewelers’ fascination for the cosmogony?

Between figurative and abstraction, poetry and the rigors of science, Alexandre Reza features crescent moons in dark gold set with diamonds. Solange Azagury-Partridge creates rings in the form a diamond around which stars revolve. Stars were at the center of Elie Top’s first two collections entitled “Mécaniques Célestes” and “Étoiles Mystérieuses“. Andrea Fohrman for her part multiplies spatial figures and even goes as far as personalizing a medallion set with gemstones reproducing the moon phase on the day of her birth.

Jewelers love the idea that the universe is ordered and in harmony, and to think that a network of analogies links us to the earthly world. To connect us with the beyond, what better than mysterious gems like star sapphires, opals and tiger-eye. The spherical pendants of the Lebanese jeweler, Noor Fares, are sculpted in gemstones with opalescent and iridescent reflections, and in moonstone and labradorite at the center of Blackbird and the Snow‘s collections.

This very current cosmogony theme, in the past inspired such spectacular pieces as Mademoiselle Chanel’s “Comète” necklace of 1932. The house re-acquired this piece during the creation of its jewelry division and has turned it into an easily recognizable code at the base of a number of collections with such evocative names as “Voie Lactée” and “Ciel Étoilé” among others. A magnificent Big Bang.

 

Banner picture: Chanel Joaillerie – “Comète” necklace – Platinum, white gold and diamonds

Most popular articles

Brenda Kang: vintage jewelry in Asia

“The social media are also playing a huge part in the spread of vintage jewelry, especially WeChat and Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book), a kind of...

Diamonds – a future pretty in pink?

Rio Tinto has built up a reputation for its pink diamonds on a par with Muzo’s for emeralds.

A new craze: infatuation with antique jewelry in China

The impressive results of Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale this April reveal Asian clients’ growing predilection for 19th-century European jewelry.

JAR's "Sheep's Head" knocked down for five times its estimate at Christie's Paris

“This clip has a powerful effect on people: it even disturbed some of our customers,” says Violaine d’Astorg, director of the jewelry department in...

The French watch and jewelry market in 2020

Francéclat publishes a study on the watch and jewelry market: it shows a market in shock, for in 2020, its turnover was down by 14%. But there are glimmers...

Cresus, the pre-owned watch pioneer

Cresus emerged as a trailblazer on the pre-owned watch market almost 30 years ago. We meet the company’s CEO, Maximilien Urso.