Business

20 December 2017

“Precious Ballerinas” by Van Cleef & Arpels

The ballerinas at the heart of the new Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition were inspired in the 1940s by the paintings of Edgard Degas.

By Sandrine Merle.

One ballerina launches herself into the air while another executes an arabesque. Her arm rises elegantly, her leg is outstretched and her foot is curved. The postures and movements of these 7-8 centimetre dancers, usually mounted on brooches, are captured with infinite grace …

The first ballerina by Van Cleef & Arpels 

The first ballerina was the brainchild of Louis Arpels, a great ballet lover, in New York. From the very beginning, the face of this graceful figurine was stylised by a pear-shaped diamond. The stage costumes are highly sophisticated, like that of the Spanish dancer: note the emerald lining of her tutu rustling with diamonds. The ballerinas designed for the French market are very understated. One in yellow gold sequins is graced with turquoises, another with diamonds. Gold is also textured, pleated or punctured to represent English embroidery or tulle.

Van Cleef & Arpels’s favorite theme

Over the years, dance has become the Maison’s favorite theme. The second highpoint was in 1967 when Claude Arpels (Louis’ nephew) collaborated with the Russian choreographer Balanchine to create Jewels, a ballet in three acts: “Diamonds”, “Emeralds” and “Rubies”. The most recent harks back to 2013: when Van Cleef & Arpels teamed up with Benjamin Millepied and his L.A. Dance Project company for the ballet Gems.

A ballet by Van Cleef & Arpels

The ballerina represents a repertoire of light and graceful forms. Some are inspired by real dancers like Suzanne Farrell or Pavlova. She is seen from the front or from above, as if from a box at the theatre. Her diamond tutu blossoms like a corolla … The tutu is also made of Serti Mystérieux emerald or ruby. The ballerina metamorphoses into half-dancer, half-marine creature with endless diamond tentacles in the “Les Voyages Extraordinaires” collection while in “Le Secret” she is transformed into a swan sparkling with blue sapphires.

Ballerinas collectors

“The oldest models are difficult to acquire because few owners are willing to part with them,” explains Catherine Cariou, director of heritage. The record is held by the model depicting the famed 18thcentury dancer Maria Camargo, estimated at between $80,000 and $120,000 by Christie’s. In 2009, it was finally sold for over $400,000. In January 2018 in Monaco, the auction house Artcurial will offer a corsage brooch and two ear clips featuring a 1940s flamenco dancer and her two little rats. Estimate 100-120,000 euros. Collectors take note.

 

“Precious Ballerinas” – 20, place Vendôme until 10 January, 2018.

Artcurial – Auction in Monaco, 18 January, 2018.

Most popular articles

What you should know before buying a René Boivin creation

The discovery of the extraordinary archives of the René Boivin company has led to the development of a certificate of authenticity that has turned the...

Getting authentication for your jewelry

The authentification of second-hand jewelry is now more important than ever before.

The low-down on Castafiore

Launched last year by two jewelry world insiders, Castafiore is the leading platform in the second-hand jewelry market.

Thomas Torroni-Levene and the René Boivin archives

The René Boivin archives have experienced many adventures since 1985. Miraculously, they have remained intact!

Patrick Schein: the voice of responsibly mined gold

“This so-called responsible choice is actually irresponsible: recycled gold must be mixed with ethical mining gold”, explains Patrick Schein.

Gold Service’s recycled gold: an interview with Yann Bouillonnec

A consortium of investors has just bought Gold Service, a Franco-Swiss company specializing in the purchase and resale of precious metals.