Business

17 December 2017

“Time is feminine” the french jewelry post editorial

It is with great pleasure that we present the editorial for this Artcurial catalogue, which pays tribute to the vintage watches gathered for this exceptional auction at the Monaco Yacht Club on 18 January 2017.

We all know of men’s passion for watches. Most collectors, like watchmakers, are men. But paradoxically, women’s watches are the most creative. To pay them the tribute they deserve, Marie Sanna-Legrand, director of Artcurial’s collection watchmaking department, came up with the idea that “Time is feminine” – a first in the world of watch auctions.

Women’s watches are not paragons of mindboggling sophistication. They do not boast complications for complications’ sake: tourbillons, perpetual calendars and moon phases are rarely featured. Displays of power through mechanics or technique are few and far between. Neither is there an obsession with dial diameter, metal weight and performance. But less is more … Unshackled from such utilitarian ends, women’s watches are not locked in combat with time. Rather they devote their energies to the enchantment of appearance and transform themselves into tiny boxes of happiness.

Let’s take the most creative, the craziest, the most emblematic, the most beautifully represented period in this sale: the years 1960-1970. At Bulgari, the dial becomes the head of a snake wrapped around its wrist. The case is hidden in a sapphire pendant worn as a necklace by Patek Philippe, the male brand par excellence. Piaget is the master in this matter … Gold is transformed into ribbon, braid, mesh. The cuffs juxtapose nephritis, lapis lazuli, malachite, diamond, and tiger’s eye. On these gems, the chromatic explosions are so beautiful that they seem capable of stopping time in its tracks.

Of course it’s true that women sometimes prefer watches originally intended for men. Some are miniaturized and paved with diamonds. They also form part of the exceptional selection of Marie Sanna-Legrand. It’s time to enjoy this femininity in all its majesty.

Most popular articles

5 things you need to know about the impact of gold mining on nature

L’or du Monde, the pioneering jeweler in the use of recycled gold, invited me to a lecture given by Aurore Stéphant, expert mining geologist and co-founder...

Urgent: polishers wanted!

Jewelry houses are suffering from a grim lack of manpower, especially for polishing – a crucial step in the manufacture of jewelry. By Sandrine...

Out of the mine into the shop window

Thanks to the purchase of rough stones, jewelers can customize the size of their most beautiful gems. It is also one solution to the challenge of traceability.

Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels : passing on the skills and expertise of jewelry and know-how

The preservation and passing on of jewelry skills and know-how are major challenges in terms of helping French jewelers develop and grow their influence....

Coming soon: 5 new ways to discover jewelry in museums!

The last Museum Connection trade fair showcased the extraordinary innovations setting the museum world alight. It’s time to apply some of that craziness...

Sophie D'Agon's digital business model

Having launched her Sophie D’Agon jewelry brand five years ago, Sophie Lepourry tells us about the digital strategy that led to her success and the opening...